By Published: Dec. 19, 2022

多元文化的犹太家庭和有色人种的犹太人正在创新以食物为中心的节日,把他们的整个自我带到餐桌上


Hanukkah, the Jewish “festival of lights,” commemorates a story of a miracle, when oil meant to last for one day lasted for eight. Today, Jews light the menorah, a candelabra with eight candles – and one “helper” candle, called a shamas – to remember the Hanukkah oil, 是什么让耶路撒冷神庙的长明灯保持明亮. Each year, 节日开始时,只点了一根蜡烛,然后就结束了, on the last night, with the entire menorah lit up.

但是因为点亮灯的原因是油,犹太人也通过吃油煮的食物来庆祝. 在美国,大多数人认为那些油浸食品是 latkes, or potato pancakes, and jelly doughnuts called sufganiyot. For most American Jews, these are indeed important holiday foods, replete with memories – both of their heavy, 油腻的美味,以及吃完煎鸡蛋后几天弥漫在屋子里的味道.

More specifically, though, these treats are Ashkenazi, referring to Jews whose ancestors came from Eastern Europe. Two-thirds of Jews in the U.S. identify as Ashkenazi, which has strongly shaped American Jewish culture. 然而,东欧文化只是世界上众多犹太文化中的一种.

许多家庭都想办法将他们传统的其他方面融入犹太仪式和节日中.

At the top of the page光明节为家庭创造了庆祝传统的机会,尤其是在厨房里zilber42/iStock via Getty Images). Above许多家庭都想办法将他们传统的其他方面融入犹太仪式和节日中 (Lindsey Wasson/Getty Images).

In recent years, 有色人种犹太人和非德系犹太人一直在关注新的光明节传统,庆祝美国犹太教的多样性.S. My work as a scholar of gender and Jewish studies often looks at how multicultural families navigate and celebrate the many aspects of their identities.

Many different Jewish stories

Jews of color come from many places. 有些人出生在犹太人社区,从来没有被认为是白人:例如, there are Jewish communities in India, Ethiopia and China. Others are people of color adopted into white Jewish families; adult converts to Judaism; or children of interracial, interfaith marriage.

Many Jews of color have strong ties to Ashkenazi Judaism. 不过,他们越来越多地公开庆祝自己带来的各种传统, making space for more diversity in mainstream Jewish life. 博彩app推荐埃塞俄比亚犹太节日的讨论越来越多 Sigd以及它在美国犹太人生活中可能扮演的角色.

One of my favorite examples is a children’s book called “The Queen of the Hanukkah Dosas,” which features a boy and his little sister, named Sadie. 他们的父亲是德系犹太人,母亲是印度人或印度裔美国人, as is their live-in grandmother, Amma-amma. In their house, Hanukkah means cooking up a plate of dosas, South Indian crepes sometimes wrapped around a savory filling. The narrator is annoyed by Sadie’s tendency to climb on things, but her climbing skills save the day, and the dinner, 当家人被锁在门外时,她可以爬进去打开门.

我特别欣赏这本书的一点是,这些故事并不是故事的重点. 这是一个博彩app推荐一个讨厌的小妹妹最终拯救了世界的故事, and her family just happens to make dosas as a Hanukkah treat. 《博彩app推荐》没有提到这家印度人是否是犹太人, but either way, 它给孩子们传达的信息很明确:做半个白人是完全正常的, Jewish, half-Indian kid who has dosas for Hanukkah.

‘Kosher Soul’

In real life, 迈克尔·特威蒂(Michael Twitty)是最有影响力的有色人种犹太人之一,他在公共餐桌上添加了独特的光明节食物. This acclaimed food historian is author of “The Cooking Gene,“博彩app推荐非裔美国人食物的社会和烹饪历史,以及”Kosher Soul,它将他身份的这两个方面的传统结合在一起.

Twitty notes on his blog, Afroculinaria, 传统的非洲犹太人社区——埃塞俄比亚的贝塔以色列人, the Lemba of Southern Africa, and groups in West Africa, did not celebrate Hannukah.” That said, in the spirit of celebrating Jewish food from around the world, he shared the Somali dish sambusa, a flaky deep-fried pastry something like a samosa, that can be filled with meat or vegetables. As with dosas, 并不是说这些食物传统上与光明节有关,而是它们可以为黑人犹太人提供一种用油炸食物来庆祝非洲和犹太传统的方式.

印度孟买,信徒们在Shaare Rason犹太教堂庆祝犹太新年.

印度孟买,信徒们在Shaare Rason犹太教堂庆祝犹太新年 (Pratik Chorge/Hindustan Times via Getty Images).

Twitty is known for his skill at a wide range of cuisines, including a wide range of Jewish food; cuisine cooked by African Americans for themselves and, at times, white employers; and African foods. 利用所有这些传统,Twitty创造了一个更传统的小吃: Louisiana-style latkes, 其中包括克里奥尔和卡津菜的“三位一体”——大蒜, 在这个食谱中加入葱和芹菜,再加上一点辣椒粉.

很多人即兴创作他们的latke食谱:我以前的犹太教堂, like many others, 人们带来了各种各样的创新吗, 包括黑豆和红薯饼,还有萨莫萨饼. For Twitty, 从克里奥尔风味中解脱出来,让他把自己的犹太信仰和非裔美国人的传统结合在一起,并为其他黑人犹太人提供了一条效仿的道路.

Full table, full selves

In my new book, “The Racism of People Who Love You,“我想了很多博彩app推荐在白色空间里变成棕色,以及来自混合身份的创新.

I am not from a historically Jewish Indian community, but my own innovation, as a Jew of color, is this. 疫情前的最后一个光明节,我妈妈来看我. 她既不是犹太人也不是印度人,但在她几十年的婚姻中成为了一名出色的印度厨师. I, however, am not an excellent Indian cook and, whenever I am able to spend time with my mom, I want her to make something called aloo puri, which is a chickpea and potato dish served with crispy, puffy fried bread. 我不知道怎么做面包,这是一种“见妈妈”的款待.

我邀请了一位不回家过寒假的印度同事和博彩平台推荐一起共进晚餐. 当我碰巧向我研究犹太问题的一位资深同事提到这顿晚餐时, 他说他想让我妈妈为他做一顿印度晚餐, and so, with my mom’s permission, I invited him and his husband to join us as well.

My mom looked at me. “Puri are fried in oil,” she said, and all of a sudden we had a Hanukkah party, with a menorah lighting and fried food. For me, 有我的资深同事在场,并兴奋地加入博彩平台推荐,这一刻我意识到我可以把我的全部自我带到桌子上.

If I were the type to make holiday wishes, that is, perhaps, 我所希望的是:一个所有有色人种的犹太人都能充分展现自我的地方.


This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

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